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Russ Ebert Tim Bender Andre Laurin Greg Goodwin Rick Strobel
Arctic Cat Polaris Yamaha Ski Doo  Fox Shox
Russ Ebert, Arctic Cat

 
  
 

2.22.10:
 
Question:  My question is regarding braking. On more than on occasion, my son's brake lever has gone flat after racing. This may be just be happening now as he is getting more aggressive, and not really a mechanical issue. It has happened on both his 300 and on his 550 (both 2006 Ski-doo) And this usually happens... right after exiting the track. I can see signs (discoloration) that the rotor may be slightly warped (on one of the two sleds) and My first thought was possible air in the line. I bled the line and the fluid was unusually hot... I am running the recommended DOT4. What sorts of contributing factors can be coming into play?...I am able to pump the lever and they return, and work fine upon cooling the system. I will check the caliper to see if it is hanging up at all, causing unwanted friction. Ultimately, it is a safety concern for me as no brakes is neither good for him or his fellow competitors (hopefully behind him, lol).  Thanks for any insight.

Answer (Greg):  Brake problems can be troublesome as well as becoming a safety issue, but with proper maintenance and a general understanding of your brake system you should be able to solve your brake fade.  Make sure your disk is not warped.  If it is you will need to replace it. A warped disk will push back the caliper pistons and you will have to pump the brake lever. If the disk is still straight, make sure to remove any brake pad build up from disk, usually with a coarse sand paper.

Inspect brake pads, making sure that pads are wearing evenly, uneven wear can be from a warped disk or possibly from piston overheating and binding in the caliper. If brake pads are extremely worn make sure to check brake fluid level in master cylinder as the pistons will have extended in the caliper and displaced the fluid.
 
If you have overheated the caliper and disk, you should bleed out the fluid in the caliper and replace with new fluid. You can do this by adding new fluid in the master cylinder as you pump it through the caliper bleed screws.You can use a piece of clear fuel line on the bleeder screw to direct fluid away from pads and disk.You will also be able able to see if you have any air in the system. Make sure you have all the air bled out of the caliper and master cylinder. Also make sure you are using compatible high quality and high temperature brake fluid.
 
 Also make sure that nothing is blocking air flow to disk and caliper as heat dissipation is needed.
 
1.11.10:
 
Question:  I have a 2008 Yamaha Nytro FX RTX with the stock Fox shocks in the front and the Yamaha shocks in the skid.  I have been trying to get the sled to steer like a "2 stroke" with poor results.  The latest adjustments that make the steering comparable are 65 psi in the front shocks, front limiter strap pulled 1 hole tighter than stock, center shock compression and rebound 1 click softer than stock, center shock spring preload stock/minimum at 3.20", rear shock compression and rebound 1 click softer than stock, torsion springs at S settings on blocks.  Track, ski, carbides are all stock.  I weigh 180 lbs. fully geared up.  What are some better adjustments I can make to make the sled carve a nice sharp turn without so much pushing of the skis?
 
Answer (Andre):  I have the same sled personally and I followed similar steps you did on my XTX and my biggest results was changing the skis to C&A with deep keel.  This helpeed a lot.  The Nytro is a powerful unit and apart from the skis, I had to just learn how to ride it different from 2 stroke products.  Rick will likely have more details, but this was my quick fix and I'm having a blast with my XTX.
 

1.9.10: 
 
Question:  Can you tell me how or when you would want to add or remove timing?  What is the determining factor?
Answer (Tim):  When using the recommended fuel mixture of 50 percent oxygenated pump gas and 50 percent Polaris Race Fuel, we have found the best results of running the time box dial on "D".  The only time I would vary from what would be if you were going to run a fuel with less octane than the recommended fuel, in which case you would retard the timing by switching to "E" (-2 degrees) or "F" (-3) to reduce the possibility of detonation and engine damage. 
 

1.5.10: 
 
Question:  Can you please advise me why basically 100% of the pro racers go with the separate goggles and helmet configuration as opposed to a full faced helmet with fold down shields? [Submitted by Christian Wragg, South Lake Tahoe, CA]
Answer (Andre):  For me, the reasons are as follows:  Goggles are more pliable for racing and offer less chance to getting hurt in a crash.  Goggles allow you to also change lense color for dark days, etc.  Goggles also allow air flow for intense breathing where a fully sealed helmet doesn't.  A helmet with goggles MX style also offers less weight than traditional style flip down lenses.
 

12.28.09: 
 
Question:  I was wondering if there are different suspension set ups for different snow conditions or not?  Also, I was wondering if you had any tips for setting up my suspension for a 2010 IQR 600.  I'm 175 lbs. and I race in the sport class. 
Answer (Tim):  Yes, we use different shock settings for different track conditions.  Most shock adjustments for each condition are personal rider preference.  The bigger the holes get, the stiffer we go and vice versa.  Each rider is different also.  TJ Gulla's settings are always stiffer than Brett Bender's.  TJ is more of a "pounder" rider requiring more compression dampening and Brett is smoother and gets away with softer dampening.  We use Fox Racing Shox with air adjustable Float Evol ski shocks and Zero X's in the skid most with high/low compression and rebound clickers.  We have a wide range off clicker adjustment to work with in practice.  I can't give you specific set ups as I assume you are using the stock shocks and I would guess they would be a little stiff for you.  If they are, call Ben Hayes at 715-355-5157 at the Polaris Race Shop and he will be able to give you more specific recommendations for your needs using the stock shocks.  Always remember do not get too aggressive with your adjustments at the race track in practice until the track develops or at the practice track as you will end up with too soft of a suspension which will come back to haunt you later on in the day as the track roughens up. 
 

12.15.09: 
 
Question:  Could you tell me on the Polaris IQR600 where a good baseline would be for 500 to 1000 feet above sea level and temps around 10 degrees F with a 50/50 mix 110 and 93 and timing running on D?
Answer (Tim):  Based on the info provided, I would suggest 350 main jets.
 

11.17.09:
 
Question:  If the engine peak torque is, for example, 8300 RPM and built to 8600 RMP with hot pipes, which way is the good one to turn the clutches efficiently?  Which component do I have to fine tune to get a better holeshot?
Answer (Tim):  It totally depends on your center section temperature at the start, but assuming your using a dragon of some sort, I would do the following:  If it is a very short start, I would clutch it for 8300 RMP and let it pull up to 8400.  If it is a long start, I would clutch it for 8300 and let it pull up to 8500.

11.09.09:
 
Question:  My son is going to be racing in the Jr. Novice 10-14 class this year.  We bought an '09 Polaris IQ 550 shift.  We were wondering what tracks are available for this sled and if we would be better off running a 1 1/4 track with studs or a 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 track without studs?  We are new in the racing scene so are wondering if there  is anything else we need to do for set up before the first race in Duluth?  Thanks for your help.  [submitted by Matt].
Answer (Tim):  There are a few choices on tracks for snocross for that sled in the Jr. class:  the stock track, any of the aftermarket track companies designated tracks or the Polaris designated 1.75" race track, part #5413403.  The Polaris 1.75" track is the most aggressive combination but the downside is that when using that track, you need to add two half drivers on the front axle.  I believe the best combination would be the 1.50" Camoplast designated track with studs.  I don't know the part #, but you can contact Camoplast at 888-722-8466 or go to www.camoplast.com and there is a dealer locater on their web site.  The Camoplast track can be run with the stock Polaris drivers which is much easier.  I believe all the tracks are legal to be used with studs and if the race track has any ice on it at all, then studs are better than no studs. 

11.05.09:
 
Question:  My son will be racing in the Junior Novice class this season on a 2009 550 MXZ-X.  The OEM track lug height is 1.25 ripsaw Camoplast track.  We are interested in finding out which, if any, of the 1.5" tracks are ISR filed for this sled.
Answer (Greg):  Sorry to say that there is not a 1.5" track filed for the 550 fan.  You have to use the 1.250 track.  Good luck with your race season.
 

 
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